Today
was the big day, we would be seeing Machu Picchu, and we couldn’t wait! We were up at 6:30 and down to breakfast just
after 7:00. Breakfast was a continental
breakfast, but what a continental breakfast it was! Probably the best we’ve
seen in our travels. There were all
kinds of hot dishes, an array of breakfast meats, an egg station where you
could get eggs any way you wanted, all kinds of fresh fruits, breads and
cakes, cereals, many juices and drinks and of course coffee and coca tea. It was huge and I’m probably forgetting something,
but you get the picture. After breakfast
it was back to the room to get our day bags and then meet the group in the
lobby at 7:45 for the first leg of our day’s journey.
The
first part of our trip today was a bus ride to the train station in Rio Sagrado,
which was pretty far away and would take about an hour and a half to get to. There was some sort of holiday celebration
going on in Cusco today so traffic was terrible. We had to walk about a block and a half just
to get to the vans just because of the jammed streets. The streets in Cusco
are still the original Inca roads and are very narrow. They were built for carts and walking, not
driving, so it doesn’t take much to create a massive traffic jam.
During
the drive to the train station we got a good look at Cusco and the surrounding towns
and countryside. Peru is a third world
country and the standard of living is well below what most of us enjoy in the
US. The poverty was obvious, and it seemed everything was either falling
down or in the process of being shabbily built.
It made us grateful for what we had.
There were many street-side vendors
Since
the Cusco traffic had delayed us quite a bit, the drive to the train was harrowing
and wild. The driver did everything he could to make up time and there were times
when we wondered whether we would make it there in one piece or not. There seems to be no traffic laws or
enforcement and driving is a bit like a game of chicken to see who will get out
of the way first. There is no other way to get to Aguas
Calientes, the last town before Machu Picchu, than by rail and there are several trains a day, but the
Hiram Bingham train only makes one round trip a day so we had to get there
before it left. We did make it to
train in time, though barely. We got on
the train and started the next leg of our day’s journey.
These pictures were shot from the bus as we made our journey to the train.
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Our first view of the Andes. |
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These small vehicles were all over the place in this town we passed through. |
The
Hiram Bingham train was wonderful. The
train was very elegant with very nice classic décor throughout. We were seated at a table with white linen tablecloths,
silver table settings and hors d'oeuvres.
As soon as we were all on board, the train started its three hour journey
to Aguas Calientes, the gateway to Machu Picchu.
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This is a picture I got from Tony. |
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Another from the shared pictures. |
The only way to get to Aguas Calientes, is by train which follows the Urubamba River through the Sacred Valley for much of the route. The scenery was very beautiful and made the trip worthwhile in itself. After
watching the scenery go by from our window for a while, Val and I decided to go
back to the bar car which is also the observation car. When we got there we found a party going on
with a live Peruvian band and people having a good time. Val and I worked our way to the end of the
car, which was the rear of the train and open to the outside. We shot some pictures, listened to music and
watched the countryside roll by for a while and then went back to our table as
it was time for lunch, and what a lunch it was!
We had delicious appetizers, a beef dish for the main course and cheese
cake dessert. There was wine, beer and
pisco sours for those that wanted alcohol and soft drinks, juices or water to
drink. This was not just good train
food, this was just very good food.
The time
went by quickly and we were in Aguas Calientes around 12:30, but we still had
another bus ride before we got to Machu Picchu.
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We made it to Aguas Calientes. That's the Urubamba River flowing through town. |
Aguas Calientes was teeming with people, but
our tour guides kept everything organized and we were soon on the bus for the
20 minute drive up the mountain to Machu Picchu. The ride up is quite spectacular itself with
breathtaking views of the valley and Urubamba River below. The dirt road is quite narrow and there are a lot of buses going up and down so there were several times we had to stop and
backup to let other buses pass. As
we neared the top we started seeing signs of the Inca terraces on the slopes
below. The weather was much improved
with mild temperatures and a mixture of sun and clouds. The humidity was quite high as despite its 8,000
foot altitude, Machu Picchu is in a cloud forest, which is a tropical forest and typically has a dense layer of mist or fog hanging at tree level. If I remember the numbers correctly, it gets
between 73 and 96 inches of rain a year.
Luckily this day would not add to the rain total.
We
finally arrived at the top and we were given our tickets and were finally ready
to enter Machu Picchu. One of the
advantages of our tour is that the arrival was later, which meant there would
be less people there. Machu Picchu is
very popular and even though the number of people visiting per day is limited
there are still many people there every day.
As we walked up to the gate people were coming out and very few were
entering. Most people make the day trip
from Cusco as we did, but another advantage of the Hiram Bingham train is that
it starts its trip later in the day and leaves Machu Picchu later so there are
less people in the afternoon.
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Another picture from our group. This is the road from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu. As you can see there is not much room for two buses to pass. |
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Our bus dropped us off at
the entrance to the Sanctuary Lodge and as you can see,
Tony is full of
energy and ready to go. This is another photo from the group. |
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This is a look down at the Urubamba River and you can
see the train in the lower middle of the picture. |
Our
group was split into two groups, assigned a guide and led into Machu
Picchu. You could go on your own, but we
decided (as most did) to stay with the guide who showed us some of the most
important areas and explained about the history and culture of the Incas and
Machu Picchu. As we walked along the
ancient cobbled walkway our excitement grew as we would soon get our first view
of the main part of Machu Picchu. As we
turned the corner around a wall, there it was, our first view of the lower part
of Machu Picchu. The terraces, the
buildings and the mountains above it. Awe inspiring. It was hard to believe what these ancient
people had achieved with nothing but their stone tools and muscle. Needless to say we weren’t disappointed. I could go on and on about our amazement of
what we saw, but I think I can say it better with some of the numerous pictures
we took. I am not going to try to caption everything we saw, but just let it speak for itself.
We had
almost three hours to spend walking around and at the end we were very tired
from climbing up and down the uneven, sometimes high steps; Machu Picchu is a
vertical city. There is a very nice
hotel at Machu Picchu called the Sanctuary Lodge and as part of our tour we
could end our day there taking High Tea or we could use that time to continue
exploring. I was originally planning on
walking on up to the top to get a view of all of Machu Picchu, but by that time
I was worn down from the climbing, the altitude and humidity and opted for the
High Tea. As I write this I am wishing I
had bitten the bullet and made that climb, but at that time I was just worn
down and just wanted to get into the air conditioned hotel.
High Tea
at the Sanctuary Hotel sounds fancy, but in reality it was mostly just a
dessert buffet with whatever cold drink you wanted (yes, there was coca tea). It was a very nice
buffet and the cold drinks really hit the spot.
After cooling down and relaxing a while it was back to the buses to make our way back down to Aguas Calientes and the Hiram Bingham train. Before we boarded the train though, we were
given 20 minutes to shop in the numerous small shops around the train station
selling local and Peruvian crafts.
Though disappointed by the short time, Val was all over that and found
some great things and came away happy.
In particular you could get very nice alpaca sweaters at a very low
price. It was a tired but happy group
that boarded the train for the start of our trip back to Cusco. None of us
could believe we had just been to Machu Picchu.
We had
our same seats on the train as we did going up.
Once again the bar and observation car was hopping, but Val and I stayed away this time
as it was getting dark and we couldn’t see anything. We stayed in our seats, relaxed and chatted
with our table mates who it turned out were from Whitehorse in the Yukon. Since we had just been to Whitehorse last
summer we were very interested in getting a locals point of view of the
area. He turned out to be a Mountie
(Royal Canadian Mounted Police) and also had competed twice in the Yukon Quest
dog sledding race. We were really
interested in this as we had met another musher who competed in the Yukon
Quest and the Iditarod during our visit to Whitehorse.
The time
passed quickly and it was soon time for dinner. We had an appetizer and then a salad and a
main course of grilled trout followed by a very good dessert. I thought lunch was good, but this surpassed
it. I don’t know how they can prepare these excellent meals on the train. Once again the time passed quickly and we
were soon at the station to catch our bus back to Cusco. We were quickly on our way for the hour and a
half drive back, but this time it was less harrowing as we had no train to
catch. We finally arrived back at the
hotel around 10:00 and went straight to bed as we had to be up at 6:00 tomorrow
morning.
It was a
very tiring day, but well worth it.
Seeing Machu Picchu was another one of those experiences of a lifetime
for us. Neither one us ever thought we
would ever be in Peru let alone seeing Machu Picchu so we both feel very
grateful for the opportunity. Reading
about the Incas before our trip truly added to the experience and gave us a
greater appreciation of the Inca’s life, culture and history as we walked
through one of their cities. This was an
awe inspiring day we will always remember.
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