Saturday, December 21, 2024

New Mexico Road Trip - Socorro

Wednesday, October 30, 2024

Today we are in Socorro and have three scenic byways to travel, but they are all grouped together so it won’t be difficult to do them all.  The hotel offered a complimentary breakfast buffet so we got up early enough for that and were on the road by 9:30.  We drove west out of Socorro on US60 as the scenic byways are all on or off of that highway. 

Our route for the day.

We drove this highway back in 2017 on the way home from our Geezer Gathering in Ruisdoso.  As we drove through this desolate country, we came across some extremely large satellite dishes mounted on railroad tracks.  We stopped and took pictures but had no idea what they were for.  When we got home and Googled it, we found they were part of the National Radio Astronomy Observatory (NARO) Very Large Array Radio Telescope Facility (VLA) and that’s where we are headed today.  We didn’t know there was a visitor’s center the last time we drove this route, but we know now and visited it today.

The drive west out of Socorro goes through some very desolate country.  We passed through the small town of Magdalena that marked the beginning of Scenic Byway #19.  The byway goes all the way to Apache Creek, but we would only be going as far as the VLA today as we have driven this before and have a lot to do today.

Driving west from Socorro on US60, very desolate country.



The turnoff to scenic byway 18, that we'll take later in the day.


The small town of Magdalena.

It took us just over an hour to get to the visitor’s center and when we walked in we were met by someone who gave us an orientation as to what we could and couldn’t do.  The first thing he told us was to turn off the wifi and bluetooth on our phones and put them into airplane mode.  These large radio telescopes in the array are so sensitive that even something as weak and small as a cell phone can interfere with the signals they are receiving from space.  The resolution of the array is so high that it would be like a person being able to read an optometrist eye chart in New York while sitting in California.




Our first stop was the gift shop where we paid our admission fee, and I bought a T-shirt and then we browsed through the museum and learned more about the facility.  These large radio telescopes have been used in quite a few films including “Contact”, “Independence Day” and “Armageddon”.  We watched a fifteen-minute film about the facility and the history of radio telescopes.  It was very interesting, and we learned a lot.

Here are a few things we learned about the large satellite dishes or antennas as they are called.  There are 28 of them with 27 being active and one used as a spare.  The dishes are 82 feet in diameter and each one weighs 230 tons.  They are moved around on three sets of tracks radiating from the NRAO with one going north that is 11 miles long and two others that are 13 miles long each.  Depending on what they are currently looking for, they are positioned over a very wide area in different configurations.  When you see them, it really does look like a science fiction movie.

After the film we took the self-guided walking tour of the facility and then drove over to a big barn-like structure where they build and repair these giant radio telescopes.  Next to it was a large tractor-like machine that was used to move the telescopes from one position to another in the array.

The large building is where they repair and build these huge radio telescopes.

 

This is the large tractor that is used to move the radio telescopes around.  It may not look like it in the picture, but it's huge.

After that it was time to leave, but in a way, we hated to go.  We were fascinated by what they were doing here; they were seeing something that happened millions of years ago and many million light years away.  We returned to the main highway and drove further west a short distance to take some pictures, but then we turned back east towards our next scenic byway.


 

Our next scenic drive was Scenic Byway #35 that went up into the Magdalena Mountains to Withington Peak at over 10,000 feet.  This was a rather long loop drive that would turn into a rough four-wheel drive road so because of the time we had we didn’t expect to finish the complete route and that proved to be true.  The first part of the road was paved, but then turned into dirt and then into a rough narrow track.  It wasn’t really a difficult drive, but it was very slow going and would take us at least a couple of hours to complete, so we were happy to complete about half of it and turn around and head back.  On the way back we found a nice spot and had our lunch but had to eat in the car as it was quite cold, and a pretty hard wind was blowing.

We start scenic byway 35 towards Withington Mountain.





Time to head back to the main highway ...

... but first a stop for lunch

You can see one of the radio telescopes on the left in the distance.  It is quite a ways east so it must be near the end of the tracks.

From there it was back to highway 60 where we continued east towards Socorro and our last scenic drive of the day.  Scenic Byway #18 would take us back up into the Magdalena Mountains to a spot called South Baldy.  South Baldy was the location of several scientific installations including the Lagmuir Laboratory for Atmospheric Research and the Magdalena Ridge Observatory.

Although this road was only fifteen miles long it was very steep and narrow and required four-wheel drive.  Unlike a lot of the places we visited, the facilities at the top were not open to the public so there wasn’t any real incentive for us to get to the top.  Fifteen miles wasn’t very far, but at ten miles an hour it would take an hour and a half up and back, so after we got halfway up, we decided to turn back as we had some things we wanted to do in Socorro before it got too late in the afternoon.



Here's the sign for the byway turnoff.

Scenic byway 18 started out easy enough, but the road got progressively worse as we got into the mountains.







It may seem a little strange there are so many scientific facilities out here in the middle of nowhere, but it actually makes sense.  This area is one of the most isolated areas in New Mexico.  Catron County, where this is all located, covers 7000 square miles and has a population of only 3500, so you can see this is an area of very clear skies and not much human impact.

We got back to Socorro around 3:30 and had some work to do.  First of all, we are about two and a half weeks into this trip and the 4Runner is pretty dirty inside and out, especially after all the wind, dust and dirt roads of the last two days.  I emptied everything out of the 4Runner and moved things into our hotel room and then headed to a do-it-yourself car wash.  We got the worst of the dust and dirt off the outside and Val did a great job of cleaning the inside and we had a pretty clean vehicle again.

Back at the hotel, we had some laundry to do and the hotel had a nice laundry room so we took care of that.  By this time we were getting hungry, and Val found a place called Yo Mama's Grill that got good review so we headed there for dinner.  It was quite crowded when we arrived so it must be popular and the reviews were correct, we had a very good dinner.

We returned from dinner and that was it for us, it had been a long busy day, so it was time to relax.  I did have to download our pictures for the day and update the blog, but that’s something I like to do so I didn’t mind.

Tomorrow, we move on to Silver City, New Mexico where we’ll spend four days.  Time has really flown by, it’s hard to believe we are past the halfway point and are nearing the end of our scenic drive quest.  Out of the 35 scenic drives in our book, we have done 24, skipped one because of bad weather and safety concerns, and skipped two because they were too far out of our way and we had already done one of them anyway.  That leaves only eight to go so we’ll see how many we end up completing.

Scenic Drives Completed: 24 of 35

Scenic Drives Missed: 3

New Mexico Road Trip - Ruidoso to Socorro

Tuesday, October 29, 2024

Today we’re moving on to our next destination, Socorro, New Mexico.  We were up, packed and ready to go by nine and after getting our car from the valet and getting some tea and juice, we hit the road.  We really enjoyed our stay at the Inn of the Mountain Gods and would stay here again.  The hotel is very nice, there is a friendly and helpful staff, a number of options for eating, and a beautiful location.

Our travel route for the day.  We aren't checking off any scenic byways from our list, but we are visiting the Bosque del Apache Wildlife Refuge (the red line) that we think should have been on the list.

Instead of heading directly to Socorro, we are taking a longer route that will take us back through the town of Tularosa so Val can continue her search for chile ristras.  A chile ristra is a string of chile peppers that is used for drying chile peppers and decoration.  On our first pass through town, we didn’t see any roadside stands selling them, but as we turned around and headed back, we saw a place we had missed.  Val found exactly what she wanted and bought a chile ristra and two wreaths made out of chile peppers, from Felix Lopez, the very nice owner of the shop.  Mission accomplished and we were on our way to Socorro.



Entering Tularosa



Felix holding Val's ristra.

The first part of the drive was through very plain looking high desert terrain and the wind continued to blow so there was a lot of dust.  Driving north we reached the crossroads of US-54 (the road we’re on) and US 380 in the town of Carrizozo.  On our way to Ruidosos we had taken US 54 South and turned east on US 380, and now we will be turning west on US-380, so we have gone in all directions at this crossroads in the middle of nowhere.

Not a very interesting drive north to Carrizozo.

US-380 west was very desolate, but much more scenic than our drive north as the drive was through rolling hills and grasslands.  As we neared Socorro it was only 12:30 and we knew our room wouldn’t be ready, so we decided to visit the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge.





We made it to San Antonito.

The main intersection in town - straight ahead to I-25, turn right to go to Socorro, and turn left to go to the Wildlife Refuge.  That's the Owl Bar & Cafe to the right ahead, more on that in a minute.

The Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge is twenty miles south of Socorro, the winter home of thousands of sandhill cranes, snow geese, ducks and other waterfowl. The 57,000+ acre refuge opened in 1939 to “provide a refuge and breeding ground for migratory birds and other wildlife” as well as wintering grounds for the then-endangered greater sandhill cranes. Today it is one of the most highly managed refuges in the national system.

We planned on visiting the refuge later in the day, but since we got here so early, we decided to go to the visitor center and get some information.  This is the winter home of many birds, particularly the sandhill cranes, but it is still a little early and we were told there wouldn’t be many birds until late November or December.  Getting a map, we headed back towards Socorro and stopped in the small town of San Antonio just south of Socorro where we had lunch at the Owl Bar & Café for lunch.

The Owl Bar & Café is a very unassuming restaurant at a very rural intersection but is nationally known for its green chili cheeseburgers and actually won an award this year for the best in New Mexico.  The interior of the café is quite eclectic and reflective of its rural location.  Val had a green chili cheeseburger and said it was very good, but I declined and got a grilled ham and cheese sandwich, because I have found in New Mexico when they say something is mild it is generally too hot for me.



Val's lunch, now I wish I had gotten one.

After lunch, we took the short drive up I-25 to Socorro and by this time our room was ready, and we checked into the Best Western Socorro for the next two nights.  We wanted to wait until late afternoon to return to the Bosque del Apache National Refuge so we relaxed a bit until around 3:30.  It was a half hour drive south back to the refuge where we intended to take both the north and south loops drives.

The back road to Socorro.

Entering Socorro

We head back south to the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge.

 
The Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge.

We started on the north drive and immediately saw a pond with quite a few cranes in it, but it was so far away we could barely see them and even with our telephoto lenses we couldn’t see much detail.  It was still very windy and since the roads were all unpaved, it was very dusty.  It made getting out of the car to take pictures or walk to the viewpoints a bit uncomfortable, but we did it anyway.

There aren't many sandhill cranes here yet and the ones we saw like these were staying put.


We saw only two groups of cranes, and both were far away.  We didn’t see any of them flying, which may have been because of the winds or maybe they were just happy to stay where they were.  Despite the lack of birds, it was still a beautiful drive with great scenery and a blue sky with very distinctive clouds.








We completed the north loop and continued on to the south loop where we didn’t see any birds.  We did see a strange animal at one point that we couldn’t identify, but it looked like some kind of wild boar.  Val did a little research when we got back to the hotel and found out it is called a Javelina and although it looks like a pig, it is in the Peccary family.  We took some pictures, but they were not very clear as we took them through the car window.  This drive was also beautiful with an abundance of fall color made even more beautiful by the late day sun.




Not very good picture, but this is a Javelina with two young one.





It's getting late in the day and time to head back to Socorro and our hotel.

We completed the loop and started back to Socorro, and despite the lack of birds, we were still very happy that we had made this side trip today and thoroughly enjoyed it.  The area is beautiful and maybe someday we’ll visit during the winter and see the large number of birds that winter here.

It was nearing seven by the time we got back to Socorro, and we were both tired and didn’t feel like going to a restaurant, so we stopped at a grocery store and got a vegetable plate and some crackers and cheese for our dinner tonight.  We bought enough for lunch tomorrow since we probably won’t be near any place to eat as we are going to do two or three of our scenic drives tomorrow.

We got back to our hotel, had our “dinner” and relaxed for the rest of the evening.  Tomorrow we’ll be heading west of here hoping to do three of the scenic byways.

Scenic Drives Completed: 21 of 35

Scenic Drives Missed: 3

The overview map of our trip.  No scenic byways today, but a very scenic day of driving.